Alter do Chão: River Expedition

August 17

We began an incredible adventure the next day at 8AM heading out on the Tapajos with Maira and Jerry (the pilot we met the day before) and towards the Jari Canal. An all-day adventure was planned lasting until eight PM.

Jerry was an excellent driver. We got to know Maira as we traveled along the river, talking about her work with “Geographies of Resistance” and long-term environmental activism in collaboration with Munduruku communities.

We traveled along a tributary taking in much activity along the banks. The scenery was all at eye-level, which was an interesting change in perspective for me since my previous boat trips had a taller deck.

I took pictures of many homes, farms and surprisingly cows- until we slowed down and went through some very narrow channels. Maira explained that along this river, many communities raise livestock— although the cows looked different from any I had seen before, with a distinctive hump on their shoulders.

We stopped at a river community which welcomed us with the most beautiful water lilies - a perfect photo op.

As we approached the structure a group of cows greeted us - we already had seen many along the banks -but this was really close up.  

Most buildings on the river banks are on very high stilts to account for drastic changes in water levels throughout the year, and this one was no exception. We climbed up to the deck to be treated to a sampling of food products made from the waterlily plants.

Our second stop was to another community which sold beautiful crafts made of reeds and natural dyes, some of which we brought home. We were guided on a lovely walk through a part of the forest that is flooded six months out of the year. This was the dry season, though, so the ground was exposed along with many elaborate root structures from plants higher up in the canopy.

We were greeted by yellow handed monkeys, pigs and hens along the path. We had to work harder to see the sloths and enormous birds resting in the canopy high above us.

Wherever I walked I saw another opportunity to create art – everywhere, images to capture.

Our next stop further up the River Arapiuns was another community called Carocos, where we had a delicious lunch of fish, beans, and rice.  We were then taken on a wonderful tour through their property learning about how they sustain themselves through the tourism, crafts, and bee keeping . A true example of resilience. Their weavings were the most outstanding because  of the rich intense colors – their dyes all came from the actual plants, roots and fruits of their land. They also were raising turtles for release into the wild. We visited the nursery of little ones and then I was shocked to discover how huge they grew.

From there we got back on our boat and headed back towards Alter do Chão, stopping to see the sunset and take another swim on a small peninsula.

Once the sun set, we gathered our things jumped out of the boat, and Richard immediately went to the same restaurant we liked and order drinks for us three.