THANK YOU

I’m finally back home after six weeks of an incredible experience. Now it’s time to process the forest, the people, the art, the food and Brazil.

I want to take this opportunity to thank the LABverde “Speculative Ecologies” team, headed by Lilian Fraiji and assisted by producers Bruna Curcio and Tammy Cavalcante, as well as its sponsors: INPA and NATURA.

And thank you to every person in my audience who has been following along and engaging with this journey. I can’t wait to get back in the studio, process my experience, and share with you the artwork that comes out of it all!

Image by Rodrigo Valle

Image by Laryssa Machada

Image by Laryssa Machada

Image by Laryssa Machada

Image by Rodrigo Valle

Screenshot of a video by Ingrid Weyland

Image by Rodrigo Valle

Alter do Chão: Meeting with Vandria Borari

Vandria Borai is an indigenous leader in Alter do Chão.  She is an artist and lawyer who works to defend human and ecological rights in the Amazon, and to ensure the continuation of her culture.  The Borari people have been in Alter do Chão for many, many thousands of years. Ceramics have been found in the region dating back 11,000 years, and Vandria continues and expands upon that tradition through her work as a ceramicist and ceramics teacher in indigenous communities in the region. Vandria is not only a charismatic leader and artist but is also a lawyer studying for her bar exam.

This past year she was one of the jurors of the LABverde residency who chose me to participate in the program. Knowing I would be going to Alter do Chão after Manaus, I reached out to see if we could meet.  We corresponded with each other and arranged for a visit with her and a group of indigenous women artists. Luckily by that time my studio assistant Ella Konefal had joined us and was able to be our translator while Richard became the documentarian of our meeting.

It was a joy to meet with Vandria and several of her friends, family members, and collaborators in the space the both live in and share as a collective art space in Alter do Chão. All the women we met were such vital individuals, sharing their stories and art forms. We first introduced ourselves and began to talk as we sat in front of two beautiful ceramic pieces by Vandria.  Then, some of the other women shared their work, including textile design that used a plant-based pigment that’s traditionally used as body paint. Another artist shared a colorful and interesting painting, another shared beautiful drawings in pen and colored pencil, and another talked about her musical composition work. As a collective, they work in a way that fuses artistic practice with spiritual and medicinal practice in a very powerful way.

After sharing some of their work, everybody asked to see some of mine. Luckily, I still had my five-minute Power-point from LABverde on my laptop.

I then insisted on seeing more of theirs, so Vandria showed me some wonderful images of their special festivals as well as a great installation piece of hers which was in Switzerland. She hopes to make one like that locally soon.

Before we left, we were treated to some refreshments with powerful singing and music played on two beautifully crafted drums. What energy these indigenous women possessed.

Throughout the meeting, Ella translated from Portuguese to English and later when I was presenting from English to Portuguese, with support from Vandria along the way who also speaks some English. Despite the language barrier, we were able to communicate on a profound level. I know I cried; many people got goosebumps as we shared passionate words about the power of art to touch the heart and inspire action in defense of the ecosystems that impact us all on our interconnected globe. It was very powerful to speak with this group of indigenous women who know better than anyone that Indigenous sovereignty is a fundamental part of that struggle.

It was an evening of warm communal feeling, feminist power and shared energy and hope. I was honored to be with them that evening.

Alter do Chão: River Expedition

August 17

We began an incredible adventure the next day at 8AM heading out on the Tapajos with Maira and Jerry (the pilot we met the day before) and towards the Jari Canal. An all-day adventure was planned lasting until eight PM.

Jerry was an excellent driver. We got to know Maira as we traveled along the river, talking about her work with “Geographies of Resistance” and long-term environmental activism in collaboration with Munduruku communities.

We traveled along a tributary taking in much activity along the banks. The scenery was all at eye-level, which was an interesting change in perspective for me since my previous boat trips had a taller deck.

I took pictures of many homes, farms and surprisingly cows- until we slowed down and went through some very narrow channels. Maira explained that along this river, many communities raise livestock— although the cows looked different from any I had seen before, with a distinctive hump on their shoulders.

We stopped at a river community which welcomed us with the most beautiful water lilies - a perfect photo op.

As we approached the structure a group of cows greeted us - we already had seen many along the banks -but this was really close up.  

Most buildings on the river banks are on very high stilts to account for drastic changes in water levels throughout the year, and this one was no exception. We climbed up to the deck to be treated to a sampling of food products made from the waterlily plants.

Our second stop was to another community which sold beautiful crafts made of reeds and natural dyes, some of which we brought home. We were guided on a lovely walk through a part of the forest that is flooded six months out of the year. This was the dry season, though, so the ground was exposed along with many elaborate root structures from plants higher up in the canopy.

We were greeted by yellow handed monkeys, pigs and hens along the path. We had to work harder to see the sloths and enormous birds resting in the canopy high above us.

Wherever I walked I saw another opportunity to create art – everywhere, images to capture.

Our next stop further up the River Arapiuns was another community called Carocos, where we had a delicious lunch of fish, beans, and rice.  We were then taken on a wonderful tour through their property learning about how they sustain themselves through the tourism, crafts, and bee keeping . A true example of resilience. Their weavings were the most outstanding because  of the rich intense colors – their dyes all came from the actual plants, roots and fruits of their land. They also were raising turtles for release into the wild. We visited the nursery of little ones and then I was shocked to discover how huge they grew.

From there we got back on our boat and headed back towards Alter do Chão, stopping to see the sunset and take another swim on a small peninsula.

Once the sun set, we gathered our things jumped out of the boat, and Richard immediately went to the same restaurant we liked and order drinks for us three.

Alter do Chão: First Day

August 16

We arrived at the Santarém Airport in the middle of the night and luckily a driver was waiting to take us on our hour-long drive to Alter do Chão. Lillian had suggested this resort town on the Tapajos River instead of Boa Vista as a welcome change from our residency’s stark quarters… I was already familiar with the Tapajos River because of the research that went into my painting “Roads to Ruin,” and my research on the Munduruku.  Thanks to journalist Terrence McCoy’s great Washington Post article called “Utopia to blight: surviving in Henry Ford’s lost jungle town,” I also knew that Ford’s storied rubber plantations “Fordlandia” and “Belterra” were located just a few hours south.

The main difference between being in the jungles in Alter do Chão as compared to the Reserve where I spent my residency was the density of the forest (on the reserve) and the ubiquity of water (in Alter do Chão). Actually, the temperature was also different. Of course we were still experiencing the heat of the equator, but here there was a constant breeze and the air was lighter.

Thanks to a friend of Rogerio Assis, Caetano Scanavino, we were directed to the coastal port to look set up a tour for the next day with ATUFA – a collective of local boat drivers and tour guides.

We found a friendly boat pilot who didn’t speak English. But Jerry was clever enough to go on WhatsApp and have me speak to someone who could. That person connected me with Maira Irigaray, whose interests dovetailed with my own. Aside from having lived in Florida and Denver and speaking English fluently, her focus was on environmental justice, and she was very familiar with the Munduruku people. She reinforced an important lesson I learned on my residency from fellow artist Sidouhi: Indigenous people don’t want to be objectified and used to demonstrate western sympathies. Too often, outsiders talk about them without real awareness or understanding. Maira argued it was best to celebrate the power, wisdom and sustainability of indigenous peoples rather than report on their abuse. We made plans to spend the next day with her on the river visiting a number of communities. 

Our first day in Alter do Chau was devoted to recovering from our all night trip, organizing and working on some blog writing. After connecting with Maira, we wandered in town looking for a place for coffee. Ella spied a ACAÍ sign up the road where we settled at a table hosted by lovely Rosa.

From there we walked back to Ella’s place nearby, stopping to explore along the way.

Then Richard figured out how to walk along the water back to our hotel from there which was about a 10-minute walk in the sand along the surf.

I was mesmerized by everything around me and beneath my feet.

After we stopped at our hotel, we changed into bathing suits and went back to the beach. Towards dinner time we all walked back to the beach town and found a lovely restaurant, facing the river.

Last Days in Manaus

August 13-15

While my first day back in Manaus was devoted to Sitio Panc, Monday was time for us all to finally get some laundry done. We sourced the right place with air-conditioning and good Wi-Fi. However, our driver could never find it so he deposited us at a mall and suggested we would find something there.  A guard directed us to what turned out to be a dry cleaner…

We called another Uber and started all over again finding the original one we were looking for. It was an absurd journey but we kept our spirits high and were happy we finally found a place to wash our clothes. Mine especially had been in the rainforest for 10 days!

We finished up in time for Richard and I to catch a movie at another mall. He had already seen “Barbie” (in Manaus!) so Oppenheimer was our only option. There we were with popcorn and Diet Coke at 2:30 in the afternoon sitting in an almost empty theater, watching the history of the atomic bomb for three hours…and we found it compelling.

We started our very last day in Manaus with breakfast at our hotel with our great guide Rafael.  

We were flying out at 11 PM and arranged for a late check-out which allowed us to work, organize, pack, and even take advantage of the rooftop pool. Ella checked out of her hostel and came to join us.

We went to dinner at our favorite restaurant Caxiri where thanks to the maître D, Belo, we were seated in a very crowed restaurant.

We took our last walk through the square before heading out to the airport and our next Amazon adventure in Alter do Chão.

Sítio PANC

I first heard about Sítio PANC in a conversation with Talia Kahn, a former student of my cousin Evan Ziporyn. At MIT she double majored in science and music. In the material science department, she studied the creation, properties, and performance of materials — and how to derive new, effective, and sustainable materials alternatives. She also pursued her interest in music as part of the prestigious Emerson program, a conservatory-level track in the MIT music department. Her connection to Manaus was based on her Fulbright scholarship where she conducted materials science research which led to her interest in ethnobotany, the study of the ways that indigenous cultures and peoples use plants. And Talia continued with her music — in March she was part of a program at the Opera House in Manaus: “Hearing Amazônia: Arte e Resistência” which brought together 75 musicians, Brazilian and indigenous artists along with members of MIT like Evan who premiered a new composition.

I realize this is a digression, but I thought it was a fascinating trail of connections.

Anyway, when I explained that Richard would be in Manaus while I was in the rainforest, Talia suggested that he visit Sítio PANC. Luckily for me, we weren’t able to coordinate a visit until the day after I got back from LABverde. So I was able to join Richard, my studio assistant Ella Konefal who had just arrived in Manaus, and our wonderful tour guide and friend Rafael Estrela on our visit to Sítio PANC.

Sítio PANC is the mega project of Valdely Kinupp, a botanist and professor at the Federal Institute of Education, Science and Technology of Amazonas (IFAM) with a PhD in Phytotechnics and Horticulture from the Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul. Valdely decided in recent years to devote his life to promoting the understanding of how an immense variety of common plants of the Amazon are edible, and should be developed for public consumption. To that end, he purchased land on the outskirts of Manaus and proceeded to cultivate the native “weeds” he found as well as other native plants and trees. Valdely calls this alternative take on “weeds” PANC, an acronym that translates to Unconventional Food Plants.

We spent a delightful afternoon with him starting right outside the gates to the property, where he showed us multiple shrubs, grasses, vines, flowers, and roots that were edible right on his side of the road. He compared this lushness to the roadside grass strip across the street, where everything had been cut down in pursuit of a more manicured aesthetic.

We continued a tour through his kitchen, animal enclosures, and pathways. At every turn, Valdely offered us something to taste. We sampled at least five fruits straight off the tree — some more familiar such as several varieties of banana and fresh papaya, others new to our palate. Some fruits were visible but not ripe yet, like the açaí, coconut, and mangoes. It was incredible — everywhere you looked, the canopy was dense with food. There is so much that Valdely and his family have as much as they want to eat, while also sharing with other animals, neighbors, and selling certain plants to restaurants in Manaus. Sítio PANC has published an incredible plant dictionary and cookbook to show people how to identify and use all the native plants that surround them in Amazônas. Richard and I purchased a copy in French.

Valdely continued through the property to show us where edible tubers were growing, which greens were nutritious, which flowers were edible, and described the ways the plants supported each other. He also described his methods for supporting the health of the soil, which is very sandy in this region.

We met his rabbits, guinea pigs, and geese, learning about the ways the animals help process food leftovers like banana peels (which the rabbits and guinea pigs LOVE!) and then help build soil health through their droppings. They also distribute dry leaves and other plant matter over the soil, to retain moisture and facilitate slow decomposition. The animals also love the interior of banana “tree” stems. We learned that banana trees don’t actually have trunks — it’s just a compacted pattern of leaf growth.

One of my favorite plants was this huge leaf that has a velcro-like texture on its backside that sticks to fabric. We were all having a great time passing around the leaves and wearing them on top of our clothes.

We learned about the many ecological functions of each plant. For example, this spiny coconut tree is a protective habitat for sleeping monkeys. They access the leaves from the canopy, but snakes can’t climb the trunk due to the spines, which are part of the bark. I thought the shapes were really beautiful.

After a thorough tour of the whole site, we cooled off by swimming in a natural spring at the back of the property. It was so refreshing that I think we all forgot to take any pictures. We swam for a while and talked — a beautiful end to an engaging and inspiring visit.

LABverde Day Ten

The last day of this incredible residency was to be devoted to presentations of our projects. Although it was supposed to start in the morning, it actually didn’t start until around 2pm. It seems we all adapted to Brazilian time, and nothing got done exactly on schedule.

The crew was preparing an incredible lunch of Tambaquí fish on the top deck. All throughout the residency, the food was absolutely delicious.

Everyone’s presentation was wonderful. I’m sorry I couldn’t record all of them. Lilian started the session by thanking us and speaking to us about the whole experience. And then each of us presented. They made me go first! They did that at the beginning for the five-minute sessions, and then at the ending presentation as well. In a way, it was a relief and allowed me to enjoy what everyone else was sharing. First there was Juan, then Maria, then Yoichi. And then Rudy, Walla, and then Ingrid. And then Laiza. And then my dear mermaid friend Denise, who showed a wonderful series of images thanks to Ingrid’s great photography. Sorry I didn’t include everyone – I couldn’t find photos to show! But the presentations were so inspiring, and I look forward to seeing what happens with everyone’s work later on.

After that, we quickly packed and ran up to the top of the deck to take pictures with everybody as the boat was slowly heading back to Manaus.

It was wonderful to see Richard as I pulled up with my suitcases. So, so much to share. I went to our room, got my first hot shower in 10 days, changed, and then off we went to dinner.

LABverde Day Nine

On Day 9 we visited with Ugulina Bare, the matriarch of a community on the Cuieiras River. We docked there, got off, and wandered through a group of buildings, some rudimentary, others quite sophisticated with solar panels.

The story is that Ugulina, many years ago, brought her ten children to settle there with another community and built a thriving village with their own school where both western and indigenous education is combined. She spoke at the beginning of our visit, and then we had time to wander throughout the community as they were preparing the luncheon meal for us.

I found myself at the Boteci do Vovi “Grandpa’s Bar” where there was a pool table. I watched and was invited to play. I continued to play for over an hour and a half with a variety of locals. It was a lot of fun. I think they enjoyed my participation. I have to thank Renan, who decided to document the whole time.

By 1pm, lunch was ready, and what an incredible spread it was. It included alligator.

Lilian reminded me that I should ask permission if I was going to photograph residents, so I did ask permission, explaining that I would not sell the pictures, but wanted to use them to communicate about the progress and leadership that Ugulina had demonstrated there—so she understood through Ana our interpreter. I don’t think I’ve mentioned, but throughout our residency, language was both English and Portuguese – going back and forth all the time.

I’d like to say a special thank you to Siodhi, who worked with me that afternoon to record audio for my project in the Tukanu language.

There was another swim, of course. And some opportunities to photograph. We also had the chance to purchase beautiful crafted jewelry, which was one major source of income for the community. I wandered more and started taking some great photographs of ants. As I was doing that, a community member named Marcos Sawapa approached me and we started a conversation. He told me the name of the ants I was photographing, and we had a wonderful dialogue for about 45 minutes. He is from Manaus, and an English teacher who taught at this school and another community as well, contracted for a year of service. He wanted to see my artwork and so we wandered over to the school where he had his computer. He spoke Italian and German as well.

While we were talking, a family from New Zealand wandered by. They had disembarked from a tourist boat downriver. He showed them the school and had a wonderful conversation with them. By that time it was close to 6 and I realized I should be getting back to my own group. Rulan Tangen was presenting with the community when I arrived.  Rulan is an incredible dancer and spiritual leader who inspired us throughout the residency. She lives in Santa Fe, NM, and I look forward to continuing our friendship.

LABverde Day Eight

In the morning of the residency’s 8th day, we left the reserve and headed to the port to board the Victoria Amazonas.

Ana was my new roommate. Our tiny cabin was just perfect. I got a kick out of the bathroom, where your shower is in the same space as your toilet. We were on the upper deck, where the community dining room was. It was a beautiful ship. We gathered there for our first lecture, but before then we were introduced to the ship’s crew.

As our boat moved along the river, we had a wonderful view of the water and plant and animal life below. I photographed from the deck as we moved along downstream.

Our first lecture was by Mario Cohn-Haft, someone my friend Geoff Haines Styles had told me about. They worked together way back in 1998 on an Amazon Special. Mario gave an incredibly understandable explanation about the meeting of the waters, something I had read about and was very eager to see.

He explained how the Rio Negro first meets the Solimões River and together they merge into the Amazon River. What’s fascinating about this phenomenon is that one river is higher than the other when they meet. But water always seeks out an even level. However, the greater volume body of water will always determine the level. And the Amazon always has more volume. We approached the meeting place as he was speaking. We could clearly see the Rio Negro as a dark, glossy black, and the Solimões as a light brown.

The reason for the striking difference in colors has to do with chemistry and mineral content. The Negro comes from the northwest and is the older river, coming down from the Andes. By the time it reaches where we are, it’s of a black tea color. All the heavy sediment settles to the bottom of the river, creating a very dark glossy surface. The Solimões is colored a much lighter milky brown due to the particular mix of nutrients coming from its flood plane.

We were heading towards the Atlantic ocean, leaving the black water and entering the enormous brown Amazon. We traveled along beautiful river communities with an idyllic sky and many birds surrounding us. Mario asked the crew to actually collect waters from each body and he showed them to us. Although the waters are called “black and white,” they obviously aren’t when you look closely. But he cautioned us not to drink either.

We docked upriver for a refreshing swim. I appreciated the cool breeze coming off the water.

Afterwards we headed back up under the same bridge that Richard and I had crossed many days before.

We had a wonderful dinner and then more dancing on the boat. On the way to the boat we went to a grocery store, where we bought bottles of cachaça, a wonderful liquor that’s used in the well-known Brazilian cocktail “caipirinha.” That night, we drank a lot of it and it was the best caipirinha I’ve had anywhere in Brazil so far.

LABverde Day Seven

Day 7 was our last day at the Reserve before we’d be embarking on a boat journey, so we were all busily working on our projects and presentations. We were expected to present our ideas, no matter in what form, on the last day of the residency. For me, I knew that the real art-making would happen when I returned to the studio. But my thoughts and impressions were definitely already being formed with this experience. I wrote a statement that I think I would like to use on a video, which will probably be as metaphorical as the other two I’ve done in the past about melting ice and coral reef degradation. With this investigation, I think I have assembled more video footage than ever before, so it might be longer than the earlier ones.

But the one thing I’ve decided is that my thoughts, narrative, ideas—will not be spoken. I want them to appear overlaid in English on the screen somehow. I want the audio to be in Portuguese and an indigenous language. So what I did that day was work with Bruna Curcio, a very able producer of LABverde, who carefully translated my writing into Portuguese and then recorded it for me. I also wanted to have the same statement recorded in an Indigenous language so that the reality of the Amazon was complete. After all, it was indigenous before it was Portuguese. Today it is a blend, and I believe it is the meeting of those two that will help save our planet. I asked Sioduhi if he would help by paraphrasing my thoughts in his native Piratapuya language, known as Tukano in Portuguese. But it was so noisy in the reading room that day, we planned to postpone his recording for a quiet time on the boat.

Everyone was scrambling to get their work done. One of the things I did during free time that day was to return to my favorite place by the pond and play with some collage ideas reminiscent of my use of burnt wood in earlier paintings. I had collected some sticks and wood as I was walking, and decided I would play with them at my favorite spot by the pond. I did some fun experimental studies, but couldn’t take any sticks out of the reserve so all that’s left is the documentation.

Laryssa, who was assigned to take our pictures, was busily making appointments with all of us. We met down by the pond and she photographed me playing with a new idea, a combination of drawing and the materials around me.

I also just continued to take photographs of the foliage that so enchanted me.

Before dinner, we had a wonderful presentation by a scientist from Natura who lives in Pará where Natura has a lab. She spoke to us about their research and shared examples of many ingredients they have gathered from the Amazon, which they research and sometimes distill into ingredients for their cosmetic products.

One of the goals of Natura is to link their products with nature, and in particular, the Amazon. Thus it was so fitting that they were sponsoring all the local members of our residency that year. What was also special was that three members of the company were with us! My wonderful boat roommate Ana Julia Novaes and her colleague Bruna Coletti, as well as Renan Neiva. Bruna and Ana were involved with marketing and PR, while Renan was responsible for product development. Happily, they all spoke English and periodically helped translate for me. Richard and I have been invited to visit their headquarters in São Paulo, which we are looking forward to doing when we get there.

After dinner, there were two interventions by the sound artists of our group. Yoichi was first with an amazing 30-minute composition made of his music, his recordings in the forest, as well as earlier recordings of cracking ice from the Arctic. After Yoichi, Vagné L., a musician from Bahia, shared his amazing music which was made with many electrical explosions.

LABverde Day Six

The sixth day of our residency was for me most consequential and memorable. It started early. We met the bus at 3:40 am to travel to our first stop: climbing the tower at Reserve FT2 so that we would arrive for the sunrise. It was a huge climb. It felt more arduous than the one I made at the Duque museum with Richard and Rafael. But I made it, and it was worth all the effort. Watching the sunrise over the canopy was breathtaking, as the light continued to change, sculpting one area and then another. I’m looking forward to working with those images when I get back to the studio.

We chilled at the top of the tower, munching on our little packed breakfasts and drinking water while Flavia Santana lectured to us. A biologist from IMPA, she focused her talk on how climate change has affected the ecosystems of the forest. She shared images of a structure her research team built surrounding a particular area of the forest which records data related to the impact of CO2 levels on trees in that demarcated sample area of the reserve.

We climbed down after a while and walked the path again back to our bus at around 9:30. We stopped for coffee at the same place where Richard and I stopped en route to our overnight adventure in Presidente Figuereido.

From there we drove to Asframa waterfall where we changed into bathing suits and enjoyed an incredibly refreshing respite. Most people stood under the rushing falls, but I chose to just sit in the cool waters and hang out.

\We spent almost two hours there, having an incredibly wonderful traditional fish lunch quenched with fresh fruit juices. I took lots of photographs before we left, even some of monkeys in the trees.  Then we returned to the bus to head to our last location of the day: the Balbina dam.

What began with a celebratory exuberant feeling of well-being at the sunrise and waterfall was dampened by this visit. It was a most heartbreaking encounter with the cruel realities of dictatorship and negligence towards its people..

When we arrived at the dock, we saw what appeared to be another pristine reserve of green islands. But we quickly learned that was not the case. As we left shore on two boats, the river opened up to the “Cemetery of Trees”.

In 1980, the leadership was intent upon creating massive public projects such as a hydroelectric dam for the city of Manaus. However, the solution was devastating to the communities that lived here, as well as a fiasco in terms of engineering. It never paid off. But what it did do is flood over 300,000 hectares of pristine forest. What we first thought were islands were actually the tops of the very highest part of the forest that had been flooded by the dam.

Many areas in the Amazon River Basin are heavily impacted by the differences between the dry and wet season. River levels can fluctuate naturally by around 20 meters, flooding forests during the rains and draining them later on in a natural cycle.  But the Balbina dam intensified this pattern by flooding the forest completely, covering all the trees during the wet season and completely drying out in the dry season. The trees and animal life, which were not adapted to be completely submerged in water, died during the flood.  This left a dead dry mass when the water disappeared in the dry season. Then in 2011 a major “El Niño” weather pattern arrived in the dam’s first dry season, followed by a severe drought that left dead fish and animals to rot. This produced gaseous fumes that caught fire and burnt down a vast stretch of what had once been healthy forest.

We traveled across the water towards this burnt forest.  We eventually moored our boats on a spit of island to hear more from the researchers who were with us, as well as members of the communities that had been impacted by the project. Our pilot was a young boy when all this happened, and the memories were seared in his heart. We learned how, for two years, the people who survived were without fresh water or food. The government neglected both the original community and the Balbina village, which had been built to accommodate the workers constructing the dam. The reserve we visited was established as a way of compensating for the destruction. The irony of all this is that, while the flooded waters were raised up to 50 meters in the rainy season they produced 15% of the electricity for the city of Manaus, in the dry season all the water disappeared, producing nothing.  Very little electricity was provided in the end—a graphic example of butchered energy system design.

Another younger woman pilot spoke so emotionally in Portuguese that I just began to cry listening to her words and watching her expressions - the actual language didn’t matter. Everyone was crying.

We began the day with the sun rise, and we ended it at Balbina watching the sun set. It was beautiful, in spite of the intense sadness of the experience.  We rushed back by boat and headed towards the dam itself, before returning to our buses and heading back home to Adolpho Ducke Reserve.

We got back at 10:30, and believe it or not, most people went to eat. I just collapsed and fell asleep.

LABverde Day Five

On the morning of our fifth day, LABverde’s inspiring director Lillian Fraiji gave us a talk titled “Speculative Ecologies.”  Lilian broke the concept down into three categories.  She spoke about the imagery, art, and nature of the Amazon, referencing artworks by past LABverde residents alongside texts by Margaret Atwood and Octavia Butler. Lilian talked about dystopian reality and questioned how we, as artists, can speculate about ecology in the present, and how we can be more open to unexpected possibilities. She asked us to consider in what form the Amazon exists for each of us personally, and how we might be connected to it through our souls and our breath.

She spoke about the concept of humidity, of water, sky, and rivers, and the Amazon’s special identity as the largest water basin in the world. All water is recycled in the forest, going into the sky, towards the Andes, and moving east again as rain.

Lilian broke down post-colonial history of the Amazon region into four sections:

1)    1500-1900: Expeditionary travel

2)    1900—1964: Cycles of Modernity

3)    1964-1985: Military Dictatorships

4)     2018-NOW

I found her description of the dictatorship period to be the most moving. That was when the government started building highways into the forest, invading the Amazon in an attempt to join east to west and north to south. I actually did a suite of paintings (Roads to Ruin) about BR-163 which speaks to that.

Luckily there are no roads into Manaus, which helps protect the forest. But just north, in Presidente Figuereido, one of the biggest environmental disasters in the area did take place: the horrendous Balbina Dam disaster, which I’ll talk about in a later blog post.

The last part of Lilian’s presentation was devoted to a great inhouse film provided by the cosmetic company Natura whose world headquarters are located in São Paulo. They describe themselves this way: Since 1969, Natura’s reason for being has been to create and sell products and services that promote the harmonious relationship of the individual with oneself, with others and with nature.

And true to this sentiment they sponsored all of the local participants in our 2023 residency program. Several members of the company also participated in the whole experience. It was a delight to be with Ana Julia Novaes (my roommate on our boat trip), Bruna Coletti and Renan Neiva who I hope to see them later on at their headquarters in São Paulo.

The rest of our day was spent mostly in free time as each of us were working on our projects, transferring photos and studying in our reading room.  We did go on an hour-long walk with a wonderful indigenous guide, Kapiro Apurinã who was born in the forest as part of the Taura-mirin community by the Purus river in the state of Amazônas.

Kapiro pointed out certain plants and told us some wonderful stories as we walked with him until darkness settled in. He also took a palm leaf and turned it into a toy something I had seen done earlier with our friend Rafael.

That night after dinner, resident Maria do Rio Negro presented a powerful artistic intervention. It was deeply impactful and so well-choreographed and articulated. Maria’s piece was titled “Pé de urucum,” or “Foot of the Anetto.”  She staged it within the environment, beginning the performance in a tented net. She set up candles around the net and slowly crept out almost as if she was part of the earth, slithering through the landscape. Her body movements were evocative and compelling. She moved between the candles, later floating them on the water in buoyant gourds.

Much of the lighting came from the camera flash of all the other residents following and filming the performance – it was illuminated by our presence as witnesses.  It was a magic collaboration between the darkness of the night, the sounds of the forests, the lights from the candles, and the illumination from video cameras.

To me, the most powerful part of the performance was when Maria poured the natural paint that she created from a local plant over herself, turning her hair and body a red color. Then watching her cross the bridge to the other side of the pond and returning back to her netted nest was just an amazingly powerful happening for us all.

It was earthy, organic, and both anamorphic and anthropomorphic simultaneously. Maria symbolized the Amazon in a very poetic way. I was really moved.  The performance lasted only about 20 minutes, but it felt timeless.

After Maria’s powerful performance, we returned to our dining area for another great dance party hosted by Juan, the fantastic DJ in our group. We danced the night away, enjoying each other, the music, and the cool forest air.

LABverde Day Four

The lecture I was most looking forward to happened on the morning of our fourth day. I was eager to learn more from Emanuele Coccia since I had previously been reading his book, Life of Plants: A Metaphysics of Mixture.  His presentation was elegant, profound, and playful all at the same time. I recorded almost all of it.

While Emanuele referenced The Life of Plant, I felt he was already previewing another one to come. His book is written from the point of view of a philosopher, criticizing the discipline of philosophy which has always overlooked plants and seldom knows their names. Even biology considers them as mere decoration on the tree of life. Yet Emanuele believes that plants give life to the earth. They produce the atmosphere that surrounds us. They are the origin of the oxygen that animates us. Plants embody the most direct elementary connection that life can establish with the world.

 “Oh, my earth,” Emanuele implored, on the first image of his power point— “Why are we still together.  Are we?”  He went on to explain that we don’t really know the Earth at all; we are used to measuring the Earth from our position on the ground, in relation to our own feet. But never talk about the geography below the ground. My notes from his lecture are poetic and profound: “We are inhabiting the sky, but we name our partner wrongly. You are what you are based on—our touching the ground.”

I loved how he identified the toxicity within the traditional Gaia mythology, and wondered why we recognize Gaia as representative of the Earth. Emanuele implored us to realize that we are at this moment in a truly revolutionary time for the first time ever because of climate change, which forces us to confront “the whole of everything”; all parts at once.

Emanuele spoke of Davi Kopenawa’s word “omama” for Earth, the subject that produced every single culture in our world. One part of the identity of the Earth can be expressed by every word we have for it. As Emanuele sees it, our job is to find a way to express the whole world in one word. We must find and define a new name. He says that it’s not just a noun we are searching for; it’s all of us. We are the cosmos, Earth. And we are confronted with the problem of knowing more, collectively, than ever before about what’s happening all around the world. “It is a collection of everything that has existed and will exist.” I could go on—I have pages upon pages of notes and many recordings. If you’re interested in hearing more, you’ll let me know when I get home.

I look forward to continuing a friendship with Emanuele after this experience. We hope to meet in New York and Philly in the Spring.

There were many surprise visitors that day. First there was curator Claudi Carreras with his two colleagues, Photo-journalist Joseph Zarate and journalist Andreas Cardona Cruz from Columbia. They were spending three months traveling through the Amazon meeting communities along the way, interviewing people for an exhibition he was planning to present in Barcelona this November about the importance of the Amazon River for the world and Brazilian artists who are part of it.

Also visiting was an inspiring Activist and her son from Lima, Peru. The activist was in town to perform at a festival at the Opera house in Manaus. She spoke compellingly about her people and how they were persecuted and denied fresh water in their community. However, she is a warrior and feminist who has survived and leads her people through artwork and music.

Even though this was the dry season, it rained about three separate times during our stay. One of them was very fortuitous because it allowed me to capture my leaves in the rain, and also to capture video and sound in the rain, which I hope to use later.

We concluded our fourth day with a magical night walk led by Francisco Felipe Xavier, who we called Chico. He was a colorful, enthusiastic scientist who made the nighttime walk truly special.

He drew our attention to all sorts of life, from a pregnant tarantula to an iridescent scorpion. I enjoyed watching the leaf ants marching along doing their night-time work. When we got somewhat deeper on our path, he took out a large tarp and placed it on the ground.  We all took our shoes off and sat there in the darkness listening to the sounds, adjusting our eyes and imagining what it was like for those who lived in the forest hundreds of years earlier.

LABverde Day Three

After breakfast we spent the morning with free time, which basically meant working on individual projects in an air-conditioned space with a large communal table. I started photographing leaves I was collecting in the back of our room.

Before lunch, we had a wonderful presentation by Renata Peixe-boi introducing us to the many edible plants in the forest. (Many days later, after the residency was over, we actually went to visit a farm called Sitio Panc and met the man who was her teacher, but we’ll get to that later.) I fell in love with the Taioba leaf Renata was carrying, so she gave it to me as a gift and I started experimenting with it in my work. Taioba is an herbaceous plant native to the tropical and equatorial Americas, especially Brazil, where it is actively cultivated.

The title of Renata’s talk was “Natural Food from the Forest.” She explained that the forest offers a great variety of smells and tastes. We were asked to guess how many species of plants there were. Answer: over 300,000 species have been officially identified. Of those, 30% are edible. 150 can be found in the market. But most people eat only about 30 species. When you think of how people existed early on without supermarkets, and how they maintained their energy, I might think of rice and beans. But in the Amazon, the typical diet has always been much more diverse. Manioc is the staple protein source, rather than rice and beans.  There are over 150 different species of this root, and many products come from it—including soups, flours, and tapioca.

Renata emphasized the importance of eating a diversity of foods. Many diseases are caused by the lack of natural food in our diet. Health insecurity is felt by nearly one billion people around the world. It doesn’t have to be that way. Knowledge and access to traditional, localized, diverse food ways are crucial. 

One of the symbols of the amazon is the fruit of the cashew nut. Cashews are great for the economy because they are raised domestically, and you don’t have to cut down trees to cultivate them. Whole families meet in the forest to gather the nuts. 14 types of trees are protected in the amazon, and cashew is one of them.

After lunch we had a talk from Dr. Igor Luis Kaefer, whose specialty was frogs.

We then took a walk down the same path but to a new destination: a waterfall where we could bathe in the afternoon. It was a very fast, arduous walk, and Bruna was kind enough to offer to carry my backpack so we’d get there more quickly– so we could spend time there and still hopefully get back before dark.

On the way back, I was at the head of the procession carrying my pack and stopping along the way whenever Igor found a little leaf frog.

That night at dinner, we celebrated Juan Ferrer’s birthday—my new friend from Chile who I look forward to seeing in New York this fall.

LABverde Day Two

On day two, breakfast started at 7:30. It was delicious, with scrambled eggs, fresh tropical fruits, and tapioca, a kind of bread made from the manioc tuber, a culinary and nutritional staple in the Amazon rainforest.  

At 9am we had another lecture titled “The Domestication of the Amazon” by Dr. Charles Clement from IMPA.

He seemed about my age, was from the northeast US, and explained how he left home in the 60s to travel the world and wound up as a naturalist in the Amazon, where he has remained ever since. The main point of his talk was to disabuse us of the notion that the Amazon Rainforest is some sort of “ideal” untouched environment. The assumption that the forest was a “natural” biome and not anthropogenic is based on ignorance, according to Charles.  The assumption was born out of western academia, which was (and is) full of colonial thinkers. Charles posited that human activity was always there, and those first inhabitants understood the danger of the forest and how to negotiate it. He spoke of niche construction, which Darwin did not consider to be important. All species construct their niche, which fortifies them against change.  Think of ants, beavers, birds. Charles then gave us a very brief history of the evolutionary processes that pivoted 800,000 years ago when Homo Erectus first domesticated the environment with fire—the first tool not held in one’s hand. Researchers were able to detect human presence in Australia 50,000 years ago based on a great increase in relics of fire. So humans transformed a natural ecosystem into an anthropogenic one. Researchers have dated evidence of human domestication of plants and animals at around 15,000 years ago. Charles brought our attention to a few terms: “culture” means taking care; “horticulture” means taking care of gardens; “agriculture” means taking care of the fields.

As human populations began to care specifically for certain plants, they shaped the ecologies around them. People would favor a tree, for instance, that bore sweet fruit. Not planting yet, but harvesting as they walked along, and throwing the seeds and pits away to cultivate more of what they liked. Charles described how foods became domesticated in the Amazon, and how the roots, or tubers, were the most important cultivars.  Alongside the abundance of fish that filled the region’s rivers, tubers provided robust protein sources. The Amazonian population sustained itself through the consumption of the root “manioc.” Charles said that one kilo of manioc is equal to 500 kilos of steer in protein content. He gave us this image: 60 million cattle surround us in the Amazon, without the environmental damage of livestock production.

Despite the poor soil, local people created black dirt by combining dung heaps, mittens, wastes, and charcoal. Researchers have discovered charcoal in this area dating back 7,000 years, indicating that people have been building fires and nurturing the soil for a very long time.

Charles described how trees and palms were denser along the small rivers, where there was much domesticated activity. In 1541 when the Spanish and Portuguese conquistadors arrived to the region that would later be called Amazonas, there were already small cities established along the riverbanks, with orchards and cultivated produce visible in abundance. And of course, the conquerors went through the rivers grabbing food wherever they could. The European conquest was in Charles’ words clearly a genocide. When Pizarro arrived in 1540, there was no smallpox epidemic. It was in 1616 with Belem that “the shit hit the fan” for the indigenous people. Missionaries brought great disease, and the population collapsed. By the time of the rubber boom, there were less than 11,000 indigenous people in the Amazon.

Charles questioned whether it’s possible to come to a balance between human desires and nature. He is not optimistic about the European/American ontological model. The problem, he feels, is that we are all living beyond our means. He recommended the book The Dawn of Everything, which speaks about global scarcity where we humans function like slaves.

Needless to say, this whole talk was a bit of a downer, yet we didn’t accept everything he said. As a group, I think we remain hopeful.

With our free time that afternoon, each of us residents started adjusting to our environment and interacting with it. I walked around the area below the kitchen, where there was a beautiful pond, and decided that I would start to draw. Walking through the debris, I was fascinated by everything below my feet. I hadn’t looked at nature that carefully for many, many years. At one moment, I glanced down at the grass and saw the ants walking all over my pencils. I was much more captivated by the movement of the ants than by the project of drawing the plant in front of me.

Ingrid Weyland, one of my two roommates, was photographing nearby and took some pictures of me working.

Before we moved on to the Artist Intervention in the evening, Lilian came by to see how everything was going. We three women complained that we didn’t have a mirror, so she stole one momentarily from another space – but we did return it.

After dinner there was dancing and lots of fun. I caught my roommate Denise, Lilian, and the great dancer Rulan on the dance floor. We all joined in eventually.

LABverde Day One

It is less than two weeks ago that my Speculative Ecologies residency began in the Adolpho Ducke Forest Reserve – all thanks to LABverde. It’s hard to summarize so many adventures and experiences with nature and individuals. But in the next 10 posts, I will make the effort to share some of my impressions and discoveries.

On Thursday at around 9:30 we all gathered to be picked up with our luggage to travel to the Reserve, which took about an hour. We arrived at a gated entrance and drove up a long tree-covered road. It already felt like being in the rainforest. We were then asked to be with three partners and sent to our barracks. There were two rows with a small courtyard and laundry lines in between.

Lillian Fraiji welcomed us to our “Speculative Ecologies experience” outlining the next seven days we would spend in the Duque Forest Reserve. She explained that we would learn through lectures and through our interactions with the forest, by entering and feeling the landscape. She also welcomed the input, artistic understanding, and camaraderie that would evolve throughout the experience. We would spend three dates in a boat, she said, beginning at the meeting of the waters. Lilian introduced the rest of the staff: BRUNA, the documentarian and LABverde producer; TAMMY, the artist and social scientist; and ANNA, the translator and LABverde producer. 

 We had a few moments to settle in before our first lecture by Dr. Cintia Cornelius, a biologist and professor from the National Institute of Amazonian Research (IMPA). Cintia is an ecologist specializing in Ornothology, studying how interaction with humans has changed bird populations. Her research team was just completing a nine-day study in the forest. She explained that the Amazon is home to the richest variety of bird species in the world. The equator has remarkably stable light and energy, with less glaciation and less dense human occupation than regions to the north or south, which has created a great opportunity for the evolution of countless unique species.

We had our first lunch, which was located down a many step path, closer to the forest, with an outdoor kitchen, tables, and shade. It was delicious.

 At around 2pm, Cinita guided us through our first walk into the forest. She spoke about the quality of the soil in the Amazon, the lack of nutrients, and the sandy ground we could see as we walked through the forest. Along the way, she stopped to point out many plants and other aspects on the ground. She also explained how her research team mapped out the gridded research areas called “test grids,” about 3 meters by 3 meters each.

 After walking for about a half hour or more through the muddy main path, we arrived at the first research path. We turned right and went deeper into the forest. We headed back towards our camp at about 5pm, and it began to rain. We all had headlights because by 6 we knew it would be dark. Some were prepared with raincoats – not me! But it was so warm it didn’t matter. I liked feeling the rain on my body. The rain came down harder and harder— so much so that as the forest darkened, it was difficult to see two feet ahead of you. I needed windshield wipers on my glasses! It was an arduous trek and certainly a real introduction to the rainforest.

 We dried off and immediately went to our classroom, where each of us delivered a 5 minute artist’s talk to introduce our practices to the other residents. Then off to a delicious dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Avenida Eduardo Ribiero & Adolfo Ducke Forest Reserve

Last Sunday we began by visiting Avenida Eduardo Ribeiro, which is closed to traffic and open to vendors’ stalls of food, handcrafted items, games and clothes of all sorts.

The afternoon was the highlight of the day. We drove with Rafael out Tower Road for about forty-five minutes to visit the public part of the Adolfo Ducke Forest Reserve – a 10,000-hectare protected area of the rainforest which is located in the watershed of two main drainage basins: one for the Amazon River and the other for Rio Negro. It was established in 1963 in honor of the entomologist and botanist Adolfo Ducke.

There are two sides of the park: one public, one private. The side that is now public was originally also closed, but was later made into a Learning Center with many displays of native plants, fish, fossils, replicas of dinosaurs and a greenhouse devoted to orchids.

Walking the trails gave me a glimpse into a world I would live in for my residency...

Throughout the paths I was surprised and happy to discover many great photographs by Roberto Soares who I have already corresponded with.

 At the end of the day we arrived at the newly built tower to observe on three levels the forest we had walked through. Looking down on those levels was definitely the most fun for me! That’s always my favorite point of view, and I caught some incredible shots.

I am so looking forward to returning to the “private” part of this reserve on the other end soon!

Settling in to MANAUS!

Day One

We arrived in the middle of the night in Brazil, getting to our hotel and to bed by around 4:00 AM.  Our first day in Manaus was somewhat slow as we became familiar with our neighborhood in the center of this city of 2.2 million.

We ended the day with a marvelous dinner at the Caxiri Manaus Restaurant, recommended by my cousin Evan Zaporyn who performed at the famed Opera House in March.

We were not disappointed - enjoyed a delicious meal, sitting in a beautifully renovated old building a few blocks from our hotel and overlooking the public square.

Day Two

After a slow day on Friday recovering from arriving at 3:00 AM, on Saturday we felt much more refreshed ready to embark on a full day of exploring Manaus.

Lucky for us we met up with Rafael Estrela de Freitas, a guide who was recommended by Lillian Fraiji, the Director of the LABverde program I’m starting this week. He turned out to be the perfect guide since he specializes in the natural environment - we were perfectly matched.  

We drove around the city getting introduced to its history and geography, starting out at the Mercado Lisboa along the port which is active every day and still has some of the original structures designed by Eiffel.

At the turn of the 19th century Manaus was a very rich thriving metropolis where the leadership wanted to impress the Europeans. They covered over a stream running from the port to create a main Avenida Eduardo Ribeiro, named after the governor - into the city.

From there we headed out of the city through some poor sections and onto some very wealthy sections with high-rise condominiums like Miami facing the Rio Negro. We then crossed over Ponte Rio Negro (Jorn. Phelippe Daou), a world famous bridge which was built to connect North to South.

We could see the passage into the Amazon River further south. We ended the day in Paço de Liberado, one of the oldest areas of the city where we discovered some of the earliest buildings and also an incredible architectural structure designed by Lillian’s husband.

We also a political pro-Lula group outside their headquarters who were posing for pictures - some were friends of Rafael. They knew I was with them and so asked us to join!